When we started the design on the 1JZ-GTE | 2JZ-GTE Engine Harness, the list of improvements and reasons why kept stacking up. Here are the top 5 reasons why in no particular order. More will be highlighted throughout the descriptions below.
1) REPLACEMENT, FUNCTIONALITY, & RELIABILITY - These harnesses are old. At best they are 15 and at the worse they are 25 years old. That’s 15 to 25 years of crazy weather and crazier heat from the OE turbo engine. If you’ve looked at and felt your stock JZ harness and its connectors, you see how rigid they’ve become and if you’re lucky the connectors don’t disintegrate in your hand. If anything, a totally brand new revamped replacement for something vital you need to rely on should be high up on the to-do list. Luckily we make exactly that. We put build quality at #1, functionally and aesthetically. So what you get from us is a functional improvement. We GUARANTEE our harnesses to work properly. And we guarantee them to continue working for decades to come (given the proper care). If something arises 10 years from now, we still plan to be here for you to fix it.
2) SIMPLIFICATION – There is so much to be said about cleaning up a mess, minimizing clutter, and how much it helps your mental state when working with something. The OE harness is routed poorly, its thick, its heavy, full of unneeded functions…it is the opposite of the simple we try to create here. When we design our harnesses we completely reshape and tailor them to fit the engine perfectly, route in a stealthy or tucked way…all while still being easily accessed for install / uninstall. If there is a lower and upper harness we integrate them into one so ALL of your engine and trans harness is unified to one. When you start installing the harness, it’s the perfect length for everything so it clicks right into place. It’s much easier on the eyes and is less overwhelming to look at even months after you initially install it. Spartan minimalism, its our thing.
3) AESTHETICS – We LOVE great looking products with an artful design. And we love it more when it also has a major functional value to it. If you feel the same way then you’re reading the right page because this is exactly what we set out to create. Every single detail matters…even if 99% of people can’t see it. From how perfectly the wires bend to go through the intake manifold runners, how the sensor labels are positioned the right way, the perfect planned length of each adhesive heat-shrink over the engine harnesses fire resistant loom, the perfectly shrunk Raychem boot on the CA2 or CA3, the beautiful fit of the ECU and chassis connectors. We could just go on and on. Don’t just take our word for it, keep reading and we’ll show you close up photos so you can see for yourself.
4) UTILITY & EXPANSION - We remove anything you don’t truly need from the engine swap harness, whether it be 1 wire from the alternator or an entire set of connectors and functions. We did the heavy lifting to find out what is and what isn’t needed for a true enthusiast build to provide you with something simple and clutter free. We put standard and optional harness quick disconnects to make engine service easier or to open up the door for later changes and expansion. Not to mention being killer in the aesthetic department. We have the option to change your injectors, ignition, ECU, engine-to-chassis sub-harness, add a boost solenoid…and much more. More on this lower on the page.
5) ENGINE SWAP – You’re engine swapping this prized engine into a chassis it didn’t originally come in. This can often create DAYS upon DAYS of sifting through “diagrams” you found on the internet trying to reshape the harness and reconnect the chassis functions of this engine into your car of choice. This creates multiple change splices into an engine harness that’s already getting old and dated throughout, which introduces much more room for error. Refer to # 1.
Now, onto the nitty gritty details...
How is it made? How is your quality control done? Do you test your harnesses?
United States-made Chandler Autosport Engine Wiring Harnesses are not mass-produced; great care is given to every detail we pour into these products. Extremely talented individuals build these one at a time to suit the specs you give us. The end result is a perfect fitting wiring harness with an artful high quality component design that is admired by car enthusiasts around the world. These harnesses altogether take 8 hours to 26 hours to make each depending on the version and application.
We test every single engine harness we ship pin to pin to ensure full continuity and all proper crimps or splices in between. This of course confirms everything is going in the right place as well as getting the optimal voltage levels throughout. Two individuals visually inspect every single connector pinout separately so you don’t have mis-pinned connectors. We run through every connector and every heat shrink to ensure everything matches the specs you give us and that nothing is left behind un-shrunk or unfinished. Once everything checks out we walk it back to the talented individual who built it for what we call final shrinks. We leave main portions of the harness un-shrunk in case changes have to be made after quality control. From there it’s off to be shipped to you!
VERSIONS OF HARNESS OFFERED & MATERIALS USED
Not sure if we’ve covered this yet, but set the bar for quality very high here. In the old days, core harnesses were sent in and modified. We don’t do that…what you’re getting here is a brand new engine harness put together with the best components we could find. The connectors we use are the same manufacturer that Toyota buys from. The same goes for weather, we use OE weather seals in the connectors and adhesive heat shrink to keep it water tight. Water is never an issue with our items.
We have 3 different stages / versions of our engine harnesses. Our CA1 and CA2 loom is something we’re VERY proud of. This stuff is fireproof, the wire beneath it will melt before the loom does…so you’ve got all the thermal protection you’ll need. We have some close up photos for aesthetic value below but to give a quick example, with our heat gun on full blast our competitors sleeving is about 3 seconds to roast, our former sleeving is 8 seconds to roast, and our new sleeving is 60+ seconds. That heat gun is blasting 1000º F. The wire beneath it, which is the highest heat resistant commercial grade wire we could find, melts before the sleeving. But it takes much longer to get there than a lesser grade sleeving type.
What is included? What sensors are eliminated or added?
For this specific engine harness, here is everything that is included as a standard as well as what we eliminate from the harness:
ALT – Alternator
CRANK - Crank Sensor
MAF - Mass Air Flow (only on USDM 2JZ-GTE and JDM VVTi engines)
H20-T - Coolant Temp for Gauge
ECT - Engine Coolant Temp for ECU
KNK-1 - Knock Sensor 1
OIL-P - Oil Pressure Light
A/C - AC Compressor
INJ - Injectors 1 thru 6
COIL - Coil Packs 1 thru 6
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure
IAT - Intake Air Temperature
CAM-1 - Cam Sensor 1
CAM-2 - Cam Sensor 2
IAC - Idle Air Control Valve
KNK-2 - Knock Sensor 2
STS - Starter Solenoid
GND - Engine Ground
VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor
RV - Reverse Light Switch
O2 - Oxygen Sensor
SEE SENSOR VARIANT LIST BELOW FOR OPTIONAL FUNCTIONS
OIL-LEVEL (Retained on Supra chassis)
Progressive Power Steering (Retained on Supra chassis)
TRAC ECU (Supra)
If you have something you want added, we may be able to work with it. Shoot us an email Sales@ChaseBays.com.
Something we do for all of the harnesses we design is integrate quick disconnects where we find fit. They add flexibility, options for expansion, and they look cool.
Coil Pack Disconnect – If you’re familiar with the factory OE 1JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GTE engine harness, you know how awkward the coil packs route. They’re permanently fixed to the harness, they come from the front side of the engine instead of the back, and they’re always damaged from heat. We’ve integrated an 8 position Deutsch connector for the Coil Packs to allow for quick disconnect, easier install/uninstall, and easy change if the wires (unfortunately) get damaged down the road. Also a valuable feature should you need to change to a different coil pack type.
MAP & IAT Disconnect on 1JZ-GTE VVTi – The 1JZ-GTE VVTi only came with MAF instead of MAP and IAT like on the non VVTi JDM engines. MAF is great, especially if your tuning software can use all 3…MAF, MAP, and IAT. But for most cases that’s beyond our needs. So in standard form, our 1JZ-GTE VVTi Engine Swap Harness you’ll have a 6 position Deutsch connector in place with nothing connected to it. If you ever change to speed density / MAP and IAT on a stand alone engine management, you’ll be able to get the sub-harness to plug your new MAP and IAT directly into your existing engine harness…no cutting or splicing required. If you currently have MAP and IAT, you will have the selection for it on our options above and it will already have the MAP and IAT sub-harness installed.
Boost Controller / Solenoid Disconnect (optional) – For those who want a 2 wire boost controller solenoid integrated into the harness, we offer that. This is used to have the boost controlled by the ECU (stand alone only) or by an individual boost controller. Boost by gear to keep tires from spinning more than gripping, protection from over-boosting/boost spikes, and/or the pure simplicity of it. We put this on a disconnect since all boost solenoids are offered with flying leads coming out of the solenoid itself instead of a plug directly on it. This creates a quick removal function…you never want wiring permanently attached to sensor/component.
Engine to Chassis Disconnect – Our engine harnesses have been installed in over 50 chassis types, even a few boats. On each harness, there is a 16P or 24P disconnect near the ECU. We like to build each harness with the same layout every time and leave the chassis differences on the opposing side of this chassis sub-harness connector. This is where a plug and play sub-harness would occur or our 2 options for universal chassis. Features like this leave our harnesses as adaptable as possible. So if you want to change chassis type, you’re not in any way limited. You can just change the engine to chassis sub-harness. We have 2 categories of chassis type; Plug and Play or Universal Type.
Plug and Play will have as many OE engine to chassis connectors installed as possible to make your installation significantly easier. In some cases there are a few flying leads you’ll have to attach yourself…but only if there is no chassis plug we can adapt to. Catering to a specific chassis requires mass R&D and stocking the connectors required in high volume. All the chassis we make plug and play sub-harnesses for is listed lower down on this page.
Universal Chassis Type has 2 options:
Universal / Race Chassis (CA-SAH5) - This includes the ECU/Ignition/Sensor Relay, Fuel Pump Relay, (2) Fan Relays, and one Spare Relay. All other wires are flying leads for Relay Powers & Grounds, Starter Signal, Gauge outputs, and other miscellaneous applicable chassis functions. This alone could start and run the vehicle given the car has fuel supply. This is commonly used when the chassis is wired from scratch already or much older chassis that the engine itself has no supporting or usable relays on the chassis.
Flying Leads / Wires (CA-FLYSUB) - This is just un-terminated wires (aka flying leads or pigtails) coming off the engine harness for all the chassis functions. IE: Switched and Constant Power, Fuel Pump and Fan Signal for Relay Turn on, Starter Signal, Gauge outputs, miscellaneous chassis functions, etc. If you are reusing stock relays or have an aftermarket chassis harness to adapt to, this is the better option. You will find the respective locations for your chassis on your own.
On most engine harnesses we design, there is a upper and lower harness or a separate charging/powering harness. We integrate and allocate these the best we can. For the sake of simplicity, you want EVERYTHING attached the engine and transmission in 1 harness. This 1 single harness routes to one bigger loom (we call it the main junction) to go to ECU/ECM/PCM and to-chassis. Its just one more thing that we’ve done to simplify your experience. One thing we do NOT integrate is the main alternator and starter power wires, the heavy gauge ones.
Some OE harnesses have 1 or both of these wires integrated in. This was before they knew the ill results of doing so. If either of these high amperage wires touch ground, they heat up enough within seconds to melt their wire insulation jacketing and the wires surrounding it. So if you do make the mistake of touching your starter power wire to ground, which has happened to even the greatest of wrenchers, you don’t want your engine harness to roast with it. You’re welcome!
The short answer to what all is included is; Engine Harness with everything needed power/ground/sense, the Engine to Chassis Sub-Harness, and the Charge/Powering harness.
What engines, sensor variants, and aftermarket functions do you support?
This particular harness is design for JDM 1JZ-GTE and both JDM & USDM 2JZ-GTE non VVTi. We could go on and on about the differences but simply put…the 1JZ is 2.5 and the 2JZ is 3.0. The USDM 2JZ-GTE has MAP (or “boost pressure”), IAT, and MAF. The 1JZ-GTE and JDM 2JZ-GTE have MAP and IAT ONLY. Read all about them here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_JZ_engine
We do our best to cater to as many sensor variants and aftermarket functions as possible. Here are all the variants we support:
CA2 (CA-1JZ-CM2) +$300 adds Mil Spec Bulkhead Firewall Connector
CA3 (CA-1JZ-CM3) +$900 changes to Mil Spec Tefzel Wire, Raychem DR25 Loom, and Mil Spec Bulkhead Firewall Connector
Read more HERE
OEM 1JZ | 2JZ (CA-C12-02/6)
USDM 2JZ-GTE with Resistor Box (CA-C12-02/6/R) +$40
RC | Bosch | Precision aka EV1 (CA-C12-23/6)
ID-725 | ID-850 | ID-1000 aka EV6 (CA-C12-20/6)
ID-2000 aka Denso type (CA-C12-02/6)
OEM 1JZ | 2JZ (CA-C12-33/6)
OEM 1JZ | 2JZ VVTi Wasted Spark (CA-C12-33/3)
GM LS1 | LS6 Coils (CA-C14-13/6) +$79
GM LS2 | LS3 | LQ9 Truck Coils (CA-C14-09/6) +$79
MAF and/or MAP & IAT types:
JDM 1JZ | 2JZ MAP & IAT (CA-C12-35/C13-02)
USDM 2JZ MAF, + OE MAP & IAT (CA-2JZ-MAFMAP) +$30
A’pexi MAP & IAT (CA-C12-43/C13-21)
AEM MAP & IAT (CA-C12-22/C13-12)
Haltech/GM MAP & IAT (CA-C12-22/C13-25)
Round Type (CA-C13-23)
Oval Type (CA-C13-05)
(4) Twin Turbo VSV’s:
Yes! (CA-2JZ-VSV’s) +$80
Boost Solenoid / Controller:
Yes! (CA-BOOST) +$20
2JZ-GTE 6 Speed (CA-2JZ-6MT)
R154 | W58 5 Speed (CA-JZ-5MT)
Z33 350Z | G35 6 Speed (CA-JZ-350ZT)
2JZ-GTE Automatic Trans (CA-2JZ-AT) +$300
ECU / ECM / Stand Alone type:
2JZ-GTE 4 Row ECU, 93-97 US Supra JZA80 and 91-97 JDM Aristo JZS147 (CA-2JZ-MK4ECU)
1JZ-GTE 4 Row ECU, Soarer JZZ30 and Chaser JZX90 (CA-JZ-JZX90ECU)
1JZ-GTE 2 Row ECU, MK3 JZA70 and Chaser JZX81 (CA-1JZ-MK3ECU)
AEM EMS Supra or SC300 Plug-n-Play 30-6100 | 30-1100 (CA-JZ-AEM6100)
AEM Series 2 EMS 30-6050 (Modded Honda Box) for 1JZ/2JZ Engine (CA-2JZ-6050) +$60
AEM Infinity 6 or 8h for 1JZ | 2JZ Engine (CA-2JZ-INF8) +$200
AEM Infinity 8 10 or 12 for 1JZ | 2JZ Engine (CA-2JZ-INF) +$300
Haltech Elite (CA-HALTECHELITE/JZ) +$80
Haltech PS1000 or PS2000 (CA-C126-02/C134-01/JZ) +$80
Motec M130 | M150 (CA-JZ-M1ECU) +$200
Motec M400 M600 or M800 (CA-C126-02/C134-01/JZM) +$80
Pro-EFI (CA-JZ-PROEFI) +$300
Other (Please email first if selecting this)
Flying leads only (CA-FLYSUB)
Universal/Race - 5 Relays & Fuses (CA-SAH5) +$100
89-90 Nissan 240sx S13 (CA-N-89S13)
91-94 Nissan 240sx S13 (CA-N-91S13)
95-96 Nissan 240sx S14, includes wiper wiring, originally AUTO chassis (CA-N-95S14W/AT)
95-96 Nissan 240sx S14, includes wiper wiring, originally MANUAL chassis (CA-N-95S14W)
97-98 Nissan 240sx S14, includes wiper wiring, originally AUTO chassis (CA-N-97S14W/AT)
97-98 Nissan 240sx S14, includes wiper wiring, originally MANUAL chassis (CA-N-97S14W)
82-91 BMW E30 (CA-BMW-E30SUB) +$29
92-99 BMW E36, OEM harness core required (CA-BMW-E36SUB) +$29
93-98 Toyota Supra NA (CA-2JZ-MK4)
93-98 Toyota Supra TT (CA-2JZ-MK4TT)
Honda S2000, OEM harness core required or C101 blue connector only (CA-S2K-JZ)
Speedo and Tach Calibration (Dakota Digital) for Swapped Chassis:
Yes ( SGI-5 & SGI-8 & CA-DDI ) +$209.99
Yes, but I already have the converters ( CA-DDI ) +$40
IF there are any further sensors or functions you need integration, we may be able to work with it. This is something we do charge extra for. Email us for further info Cory@ChandlerAutosport.com
AC Wiring – When we first started doing this we didn’t care about amenities like AC. Ah, to be young again. Now, there is nothing cooler (pun) than sitting in the Air Conditioning and listening to music while waiting to go out on track during the hottest summer days. So we do integrate AC wiring into all of our engine harnesses now. If it was in the factory harness, it’s in the Chandler Autosport Engine Harness. If its on the OE chassis harness, then it will not be on your Chandler Autosport Engine Harness.
When you’re doing an engine swap, getting the factory temperature gauge and oil pressure dummy light to work is another head scratcher. The best way to do this is use the factory sensors. When you select certain chassis on our dropdowns, this will queue us to include the Coolant and Oil Adapters for the engine you’re using. Use your factory sensor on the swapped engine.
LETS SEE IT!
As we said before, everything matters. Success is in the details. We take great pride in the look and fitment of our products. You won’t see anything on our products that doesn’t make sense and isn’t planned. If installed properly on the engine, you will get a perfect tailored fit. The ECU and Chassis section (inside the car) is very thought out and perfectly organized, even when most cannot see this detail. Each adhesive heat shrink is the perfect measurement, the same length and overlap throughout. And lastly, on our CA2 and CA3 harnesses we’ll work with you directly to find the perfect engine to firewall mounting length.